Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Lessons from rock climbing

Several years ago Brian and I were listening to Chris McCormick's book "I'm here to win" driving to a race. In the book he mentions learning from other sports and athletes. For him, he took lessons from boxing. Within the past year Brian has been getting really into mountaineering and rock climbing. I have jumped on board as well and now we go to the rock gym a couple times a week and will often climb on the weekend (I usually meet them after doing a long run on the trails). Getting into rock climbing has been an awesome and humbling experience. It is a lot of fun interacting with a different type of athlete and also learning a new sport. It's fun to have an activity that I do without worrying about being competitive. If I make a harder route, cool, if not that's ok too. I've been thinking a lot recently about the lessons I've had in rock climbing and how they can apply to triathlon. In fact, like Macca, I also think it is important that we learn from other sports and athletes. Even within triathlon, I have often encouraged athletes to ride with pure cyclists, swim with pure swimmers and run with pure runners. You will develop important skills such as bike control, pacing or form. You will also likely be challenged by them and trying to stick with someone in training that is faster than yourself will make you a better athlete both physically and mentally. Rock climbing and triathlon seem so different but I have still been able to learn a lot and apply it to my training. It has been very refreshing to meet new people with a different outlook on sport. Below are some of the lessons I have learned.


Trust your feet
I have a hard time keeping my feet on the wall. They always seem to want to slide out from under me, leaving me dangling. My climbing buddy Shea is always telling me "trust your feet," meaning that I should be confident that my feet will support me as I reach for the next hold. In triathlon, you have to trust that your feet will carry you to the finish line. IM Lake Placid 2014 was the first time that I really thought my feet might fail me. I was on the second loop of the run and my body was slowly shutting down. With a mere 2 miles to go I felt that my legs would buckle and I wouldn't be able to go on. In climbing it's always feet before hands. You have to think about your foot placement before you start reaching for holds. Your feet are your base, place your feet then worry about the rest. In Lake Placid I had to just keep putting one foot in front of the other and trust that my feet would carry me to the finish.


Just go for it
The shorter girls at the gym (including myself in this little group) often hate this saying. Usually it comes when we are trying to work our way through a problem with holds that are difficult to reach. A tall male may come over and say "oh you just have to go for it." The "just" in that sentence seems a lot easier with a foot longer wingspan though. I have even spread my arms out in front of one such individual and he responded with an oh yeah... Us short girls stick together and try to come up with creative ways to work through a problem that has a difficult reach. Maybe by bringing a hip to the wall or smearing a foot, pushing off and just praying that contact is made. When Brian is helping me work through a problem he pretends that he is much shorter to think about different ways to get a bit more reach. Sometimes though, despite all of our creative efforts, it really does come down to just going for it. This is where I often have trouble. If it is a high, big move I sometimes hesitate and second guess myself, especially on boulder problems without the rope safety net. I am working on going for it anyway though. Just because something is scary doesn't mean we shouldn't go for it. In fact the things that have scared me the most, and I went for it anyway, have been the most rewarding.

Don't come off the wall
This one is related to "Just go for it." One of my biggest struggles with climbing has been very overhanging routes. Maybe it is related to my distaste for doing pull ups, even though they "build character" as our friend Zack would say. My friend Shea has belayed me on a few overhanging routes. There have been several times where I get to the crux (the hard part of the route) and just can't seem to make the move. My first reaction is to let go and ask to be let down, "I'll try it again later" I tell myself, "I'm too tired" I say. Shea sits back and yells up "try it again!" not letting me down until I give it another go. I rest a minute, shake out my arms, try it again and again can't get the crux. "Just once more" she'll yell (though I know once more doesn't necessarily mean once more). We've done this a few times, and you know, I often get it eventually without being let down. Or if I do eventually come down, I'll come back to the same problem until I can get it. This has shown me that even when you're tired and disheartened, if you just keep at it, it will eventually come together.

Learning how to fall
Sometimes you fall, and you know what? Falling is ok, good in fact because it means you probably went for it. You should never not go after something because of a fear of falling or failure. This is something I myself am still working on because sometimes goals or rock climbing problems are scary. The higher the move or the bigger the goal, the scarier falling/failing becomes. So you go for it and maybe you fall off the wall, or you come up a little short on your goal. They way you fall is important. In rock climbing it is important to get your feet under you. When you come up short on a goal, you get your feet under you by determining why you fell short and then learning from it for next time. Most importantly, after you fall, take a step back, assess what you could have done differently, then get back on the wall. You can't be on every day, but you can learn from every day.


Look at the problem
My husband Brian is always getting after me for this one. I am an impetuous, impatient person and I will jump on a problem without even looking at it. I often won't even look at what direction it is going in or where the top out is. I'll figure it out as I go, I tell myself. Brian will tell me, hold on, look at the problem before you get on the wall. Which hand are you going to go up to that next hold with, where are your feet going to be placed? I take the same approach to training and racing. I want to be in constant motion, I don't want to think about training/racing, I just want to be out there doing it. Now I take a much bigger effort to incorporate visualization into my routine. I think about ways that I can improve my performance outside of training including eating well, recovering, stretching, and foam rolling. My coach and I work out a race plan but also talk about how I can make changes based on my perceived effort and the conditions or competition.


Take breaks
Not surprisingly, based on my admission of being pretty impetuous and impatient, this one is also difficult for me. I will get on a route and move up it quickly, not pausing at all, wanting to be in constant motion. I've told Brian before that I never really did well in sports that required me waiting. I got bored playing softball as a kid because I had to wait to go up to bat, or I had to wait in the outfield for someone to hit the ball. It's probably why I love endurance sports so much, I love being in motion. If I'm climbing a route that isn't difficult relative to my ability level, then this isn't a problem. However, if I'm climbing something that is challenging I will often still try to hurry up it and then as I get closer to the top I find that I am getting the dreaded "pumped" feeling (forearms are getting very fatigued). Lately I have been trying to make sure I take small breaks. If I get to a good point where I have a good hold, I will shake out each arm, get a little chalk and then move on. Triathlon training and racing also requires building in breaks. Over the years of working with coach Tara I have learned to appreciate and even enjoy my easy weeks. She used to tell me to not fight the recovery. I try to work hard on my "on" days so that when recovery comes along I am ready for it and embrace it, knowing to enjoy it when it comes because it will get hard again soon. I focus on all the things I like to do but often get pushed aside during hard training. The dogs go out for longer walks, I cook more, read more and get out with friends.


Work on weaknesses
When I was in high school I was really struggling with algebra. It was my lowest grade and I was frustrated. My dad told me one day that I had to work to make my weakest subject my best subject. In rock climbing, as I mentioned earlier, I struggle with overhanging routes the most. There is a big temptation to avoid them completely and instead do routes I am confident in. Sometimes I get embarrassed trying an overhanging route again and again, falling off each time, usually with an audience of a few more seasoned climbers. It is easy to work on the stuff you are good at and enjoy, it's much harder to try to make gains where you struggle. In triathlon, my weakness has always been swimming. I didn't grow up on swim teams, and didn't really learn how to swim properly until I was 18 or so. In my first professional race I was dropped by nearly the entire womens field within 400m of the start. In my last race, Puerto Rico 70.3, I came out with a big group of women pretty close to the front. That was huge for me and I owe a lot of it to Tara giving me swim focus weeks/months and the masters group kicking my butt. By swimming with pure swimmers I have learned new strokes that have made my freestyle stronger and more balanced. I've also had plenty of people to chase (and often get lapped by) to push myself to new limits.

Don't underestimate yourself
It is tempting in the gym sometimes to look at a problem and say oh no that grade is too tough for me, I won't be able to climb that. I can be guilty of this, I know I can consistently climb one grade, another grade is a good challenge, but I think higher grades are out of my reach so I won't even attempt them. It has taken some nudging from climbing buddies (Brian, Shea, Zack, John, Morgan and Josh) and then I might try a harder grade. If I complete the problem I am often surprised and I realize that I've been underestimating myself. This kind of goes back to "just go for it, don't come off the wall and learning to fall." Brian always says, "what's the worst that will happen? You try it and fall? Big deal, at least you tried it." This is part of the reason why I took my elite license. I had the opportunity to race against the big girls! Even if I came in last in the pro field, at least I was out there challenging myself to become a better athlete. I have learned a lot in the process and am grateful for each race, no matter where I place. Those moments where I surprise myself make all the hard finishes totally worth it.


Trust your partner
This lesson is probably the easiest for me, because I have such a great group of people around me. I never question that my climbing partners will catch me if I take a fall. In the same way I am confident that my coach Tara will give me the training and preparation I need to do the best I can do. I was confident last year in my doctor and PT that the surgery and rehab would get me back to 100%. I have so much faith in Brian, my family and friends that they will support me in my training or racing regardless of what place or time I come in for races.

  

There are so many different types of athletes and people around us. Get involved in something different, even if it's just a pick up soccer game. Changing up the grind a little will leave you more appreciative and refreshed so you can attack your training with new vigor. You might also learn a bit in the process as I have with climbing.